Wednesday, January 16, 2013
7 Steps To Inexpensive Auto Repairs Via Craigslist
Are you experiencing car problems and money problems? Perhaps you have thought about looking for a mobile mechanic on Craigslist but have put it out of your mind because of the risks. Well this page is about making sure you don't get screwed from some wanna-be mechanic on Craigslist.
1) First, grab a pen and paper, and search in Craigslist's "Automotive Services" section in your local area. You can search for "Mechanic" or "Mobile Mechanic" if needed.
2) Take down names and numbers of ads that look professional and informative so you can call for a quote. Take down as many as you please. The more you have, the bigger chance of getting a real good price.
3) Once you have your list, start calling!
4) Make sure to ask questions such as:
- "Can you do this type of repair and do you have experience with this type of repair and type of cars?"
- "How long have you been working on cars and do you have proof of certification or license?"
- "What's you policy on payment?"
- "Do you supply parts or just supply labor?"
- "How much will you charge me for this and how long will it take?"
5) The best way to ensure you don't give away your money is to pay for labor only. This is where the mechanic can charge you a heap of money for parts, sometimes more than parts actually cost, and an excuse to take your money and not return. Have the mechanic give you a list of parts you will need, and go buy them yourself from a parts store or online. Keep the receipt so you can return them and get your money back if needed.
6) Take down his information (Full name, shop address or home address, and phone number) and make an appointment! If something goes wrong, you have every right to take him to court for damages or services that were paid for but not rendered.
7) Make it clear the mechanic that you will only be paying him after the repairs are complete, and you are satisfied with your car.
8) Make sure to get a receipt for anything services you have paid for. If he doesn't offer one, ask him to sign a written one, stating every repair he has done, what he charged you for it, what you paid, with a total and signature from the mechanic and yourself.
These fail-safe steps should prevent you from getting screwed! Just a warning, some mechanics may back away from doing the work because they are hiding something. some mechanics will say they can't do it after asking about their license because they don't have one! Don't let them slide by if they are "working on getting their license or certification" which means they don't have it plain and simple!
Good Luck!!!
Saturday, June 16, 2012
Request a Vehicle Repair Estimate
Please fill out the form as much as possible and to your best knowledge to get an accurate estimate. We will respond within 24 hours by phone or e-mail.
Friday, March 30, 2012
Take precautions; check for fraud!
Just recently, I traded my two door car for a small truck. The owner or the truck stated the tags were 2012, and I could see the 2012 tags on the plates. Unfortunately, when I called DMV to check how much transfer and fees would come out to, they said the tags were past due. So, the owner had stolen 2012 tags off of another vehicle and put them on the truck.
Just days before, my cousin also bought a car, with stolen tags and stolen plates as well! It cost him $400 at the dmv!
Just checking on the dmv website fee calculator is not good enough. Prevent this! Take these steps!
1) Check the registration for true owner, registration expiration date, and make sure plate and VIN numbers match on the vehicle.
2) If the owner does not have the current registation, no need to worry. You can still contact the DMV before you buy/trade it; to make sure nothing is stolen!
You will need the license plate # OR full VIN #
Call your local DMV office. Typically, it will be an automated call that gives you options to say. They will not give you an option to speak to anyone. What they don't want you to know is, you can. In order to speak to someone, choose the option "vehicles and vessels" After the recording is over, and they are waiting your response, say "Speak to a technician." You will be directed to speak to a live representative. There you will tell the technician that you are interested in buying a car, and you want to check how much it will be to transfer it to your name. You can also ask information such as whether it is salvaged or clean title.
After you have OK'd the car, next you just need to decide whether it's worth your money/trade. Check out the rest of my blog for more tips on that!
Sunday, January 8, 2012
Check out my new features!
Take another look around my site. I've added some new pages such as Current Giveaways, Services, and Contact Us. I've also added some new blogs to my pages, so go check out what's new!
Here's a cute picture to keep you entertained. Courtesy of http://icanhascheezburger.com/
Here's a cute picture to keep you entertained. Courtesy of http://icanhascheezburger.com/
Cities We Serve
A list of cities we travel to, but not limited to. If you don't see your city, don't fret. If it's near one of these, we can probably reach you :)
Modesto
Ceres
Riverbank
Turlock
Ripon
Salida
Empire
Keyes
Delhi
Livingston
Denair
Waterford
Escalon
Manteca
Lathrop
Hughson
Stockton
Modesto
Ceres
Riverbank
Turlock
Ripon
Salida
Empire
Keyes
Delhi
Livingston
Denair
Waterford
Escalon
Manteca
Lathrop
Hughson
Stockton
Basic Trading (The Paperwork)
Someone asked me, recently, "How do you do a trade? Do you just meet, swap pinks and then take off in each others cars?" Well, I wish it was as simple as that. To do a trade right, there are a few steps you need to do.
Before you meet up with the person you are trading with, make sure you get all the necessary paperwork, that I'm about to mention, to bring along with you.
First things first, both of you need to agree on the terms of the trade. If it is a partial trade, with money on top, you need to exchange payment upon filling out paperwork. (Find out more about terms of trades, here) Now that you both agree on the terms, you can start the paperwork.
First, and most importantly, you need the pink slip (or title). It is so important to fill out and sign this exactly the way the DMV wants you to. If you do it incorrectly, they will send you away until it is done right. You don't want to make that mistake. The seller must sign the pink slip TWICE! Do not sign where it says "leinholder." You can add the odometer reading if you like, but if you do, be sure to be exact on the numbers. This is optional. Only the person(s) on the title can legally sign the pink slip away. Here is a picture to help you understand.
Next, you need a Bill of Sale (Reg 135). Now this paper has a top and bottom portion that are exactly the same. Do not discard the extra portion. Fill them both out, have one for yourself (for your records) and one for the other person. You do not NEED to keep a bill of sale copy BUT consider my story. I sold a Saturn for $1,800. I kept a copy of the bill of sale, because I'm smart like that. The buyer didn't put the into his name. He ended up getting parking tickets and was in a hit and run accident, with the car still in my name. I was getting police at my door, I was getting harassing phone calls from the insurance company until I showed them my bill of sale. I was cleared of any and all charges. If I did not have the copy of the bill of sale, and the release of liability, I would have had to pay all the fines, and possibly do jail time. So if I were you, keep a copy.
Now this may be the confusing part. At the end of the trade, you will have the pink slip of the new car, and two bills of sales portions. One bill of sale portion will be the copy you take with you to the DMV, with the pink slip, to verify the seller really did give you that car. The other bill of sale portion is for your records, that you gave the car to the buyer. To better organize them, write in big letters as soon as possible "Keep for Records" on that portion, so you won't get confused later.
The other person may not have brought a bill of sale with them, so it's always best if you bring two.
Now I will show you how to fill out the Bill of Sale (Reg 135). I will use examples (Car A is yours and Car B is theirs) The first thing you may notice is that I did not enter a selling price. For trades, you would usually put "trade" but to save you money (because the DMV charges 10% tax on all trades) just put gift, and no matter the real value of the car, put $500.
Now at the bottom under "seller and buyer" the rest to fill out is pretty self explanatory. Double check to make sure you have filled it all out correctly. Here is a picture in case you need it.
Now you will have to fill out the bottom portion exactly the same at the top, under "cut on line and save for your records." After this is done, you will need to fill out the second bill of sale. All the information will be basically the same, just switched around a bit. (see below)
I hope you understood all that I have shown you. Its a little confusing at first, but when you've been doing it as long as I have, you get pretty used to it.
If you still have trouble, check out the Contact Us page and send a message our way.
Before you meet up with the person you are trading with, make sure you get all the necessary paperwork, that I'm about to mention, to bring along with you.
First things first, both of you need to agree on the terms of the trade. If it is a partial trade, with money on top, you need to exchange payment upon filling out paperwork. (Find out more about terms of trades, here) Now that you both agree on the terms, you can start the paperwork.
First, and most importantly, you need the pink slip (or title). It is so important to fill out and sign this exactly the way the DMV wants you to. If you do it incorrectly, they will send you away until it is done right. You don't want to make that mistake. The seller must sign the pink slip TWICE! Do not sign where it says "leinholder." You can add the odometer reading if you like, but if you do, be sure to be exact on the numbers. This is optional. Only the person(s) on the title can legally sign the pink slip away. Here is a picture to help you understand.
Next, you need a Bill of Sale (Reg 135). Now this paper has a top and bottom portion that are exactly the same. Do not discard the extra portion. Fill them both out, have one for yourself (for your records) and one for the other person. You do not NEED to keep a bill of sale copy BUT consider my story. I sold a Saturn for $1,800. I kept a copy of the bill of sale, because I'm smart like that. The buyer didn't put the into his name. He ended up getting parking tickets and was in a hit and run accident, with the car still in my name. I was getting police at my door, I was getting harassing phone calls from the insurance company until I showed them my bill of sale. I was cleared of any and all charges. If I did not have the copy of the bill of sale, and the release of liability, I would have had to pay all the fines, and possibly do jail time. So if I were you, keep a copy.
Now this may be the confusing part. At the end of the trade, you will have the pink slip of the new car, and two bills of sales portions. One bill of sale portion will be the copy you take with you to the DMV, with the pink slip, to verify the seller really did give you that car. The other bill of sale portion is for your records, that you gave the car to the buyer. To better organize them, write in big letters as soon as possible "Keep for Records" on that portion, so you won't get confused later.
The other person may not have brought a bill of sale with them, so it's always best if you bring two.
Now I will show you how to fill out the Bill of Sale (Reg 135). I will use examples (Car A is yours and Car B is theirs) The first thing you may notice is that I did not enter a selling price. For trades, you would usually put "trade" but to save you money (because the DMV charges 10% tax on all trades) just put gift, and no matter the real value of the car, put $500.
Now at the bottom under "seller and buyer" the rest to fill out is pretty self explanatory. Double check to make sure you have filled it all out correctly. Here is a picture in case you need it.
Now you will have to fill out the bottom portion exactly the same at the top, under "cut on line and save for your records." After this is done, you will need to fill out the second bill of sale. All the information will be basically the same, just switched around a bit. (see below)
I hope you understood all that I have shown you. Its a little confusing at first, but when you've been doing it as long as I have, you get pretty used to it.
If you still have trouble, check out the Contact Us page and send a message our way.
Saturday, January 7, 2012
How to spot a lemon
A lemon is a car, that is found to be defective only after it has been bought. There are several ways and tests to do on a car you are purchasing or trading to tell if it is a lemon or not. The best tools you will have is your eyes, ears, nose and a mechanically inclined friend, if you have one.
First thing before you look at a car is to decide whether the car make and model itself are typically reliable. There are tons of websites to provide feedback and reviews from cars reliability. A good website to take a glance at some good and bad cars is the Consumerreports.org - Best and Worst Used Cars article. They give you a good sized list of reliable vehicles based how reliable they are. If you want more details about other cars, you can look at the CR's Vehicle Profiles.
It is also important to find out if the seller has a guarantee about the condition of the car or if it is being sold "as-is"
Before you leave to look at the vehicle, make a mental list, or even a real list of things you need to check on the car. Here are some things to put on your list.
Check the exterior.
Begin by doing a walk around of the car, looking for dents, chipped paint, mismatched body panels or parts, broken lamp housings, and chipped windows. A door, hood, or trunk that doesn't close and seal properly is evidence of previous damage and/or sloppy repair work. Inconsistent welds around the hood, doors, or trunk also indicate repair.
Check the interior.
Check the inside for obvious problems. Sagging headliner, cracked dashboard, rips or stains in the leather or material on the seats and carpet, missing knobs, handles, and buttons. Frayed or melted seat belts may mean there was an accident or fire. Prematurely worn pedals or a sagging driver's seat are signs that the vehicle has very high mileage. An air bag warning light that stays lit may indicate that a bag has deployed and been improperly replaced--or not replaced at all. A mildew smell, caused by a water leak, can be very hard to get rid of. Discolored carpeting, silt in the trunk, or intermittent electrical problems may be signs of flood damage.
Check under the hood.
At first glance, the engine, radiator, and battery should be relatively grease-free and have very little or no corrosion. Belts and hoses should be pliable and unworn. Look for wet spots, which can indicate leaking oil or fluids. Melted wires, tubes, or lines, or a blackened firewall may be signs of overheating or even an engine fire.
With the engine cool, insure that all fluids are clean, filled to the proper level, and do not have leaks.
Check the engine oil while the engine is cool. Remove the dipstick from its tube and clean it with a dry rag, reinsert it and remove it again. The oil level should be between the "full" and "add" marks. Normal engine oil is brown or black, depending on when it was last changed. Gritty or gelatinous oil may indicate long stretches between oil changes. Thin, frothy oil that's the color of chocolate milk may point to a blown head gasket or to a severely damaged block or cylinder head. Fine metal particles in the oil indicate internal damage or heavy wear.
The transmission fluid dipstick is usually located in the rear of the engine compartment. Check it right after the car has been driven for more than 10 minutes. To check the transmission, have the engine at idle and both the brake and parking brake applied, shift through all the gears. Leave the engine running and put it in neutral or park and check the level in relation to the dipstick marks. Also inspect the fluid's condition. The transmission fluid should be bright red to light reddish brown, not dark brown, black, or mustard colored; those colors can indicate serious problems. If it has a strong burned smell, that can indicate severe wear.
Check the tires
Wear should be even across the width of the tread and the same on the left and right sides of the car. Tires that are frequently used while over-inflated tend to have more wear in the middle; tires driven while under-inflated tend to wear more on the sides. Heavy wear on the outside shoulder near the sidewall of the tire indicates a car that has been driven hard. This can be a sign that other parts of the car may suffer from excessive wear due to aggressive driving. Cupped tires, those that have worn unevenly along the tread's circumference, can indicate various problems with the steering, suspension, or brakes.
Check the steering
With the car idling, turn the steering wheel right and left. Check that there isn't any slack or "play," or clunking noise in the steering. Excess play may indicate a worn steering gear or damaged linkage.
Check the suspension
Check the suspension by pushing down hard on each fender and letting go. The car should rebound softly, once or twice. More than two severe rebounds indicate worn shock absorbers or struts. Also, drive the car over a bumpy road at about 30 mph. A car that bounces and slams at moderate speeds over common pavement may have a worn or damaged suspension.
Check the tailpipe
A puff of white smoke upon start-up is probably the result of condensation and not a cause for alarm. Black smoke after the car has warmed up indicates an overly rich air-fuel mixture--usually due to a dirty air filter, a faulty oxygen sensor, or mass-air meter (which measures the amount of intake air). Blue smoke indicates oil burning--a bad sign, requiring expensive repairs. Billowing white smoke indicates water in the combustion chamber, usually because of a blown head gasket, damaged cylinder head, or even a cracked block--all expensive repairs.
Step on the gas
While driving, does the engine rev excessively before the car accelerates? This is a common sign of a maladjusted or worn-out clutch, or a damaged automatic transmission. A clutch adjustment is a relatively inexpensive service, but a damaged clutch or automatic-transmission repair can be extremely expensive. Listen for knocks and pings while accelerating. These indicate bad ignition timing or an engine beginning to overheat.
Check for recalls and TSBs
Check to see if any recalls were issued and if recall service was performed. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (www.nhtsa.dot.gov; 800-424-9393) lists all official recalls. Ask the seller for documentation on recall service. If any recall work has not been performed on a car that you're considering, it should be done as soon as possible. Automakers are required to perform recall service free of charge, regardless of the vehicle's age or how long ago the recall was issued.
Technical Service Bulletins, or "TSBs," are reports a manufacturer sends its dealers about common or recurring problems with a specific model, and how to rectify them. Because TSBs aren't typically safety related, manufacturers are not obligated to notify owners or pay for the repairs, though an automaker may pay for some or all of the work--if an owner asks them to. Lists of TSBs can be found at www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/index.cfm. Check for any TSBs that were issued for the model you're buying and if the seller had any necessary repairs performed.
Buy a history report
A vehicle-history report from CarFax (www.carfax.com) or Experian Automotive (www.autocheck.com) can alert you to possiblehttp://www.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=6693337349954253455 odometer fraud; reveal past fire, flood, and accident damage; or tell you if a rebuilt or salvage title has ever been issued for the vehicle. To access this information, provide the vehicle identification number, or "VIN," which is on the top of the dashboard, near the driver's side roof pillar. Reports should cost $15 and the process takes about five minutes. (CarFax's Web site provides Consumer Reports' advice and information on buying used cars.)
Visit a mechanic
If you couldn't find a mechanically inclined friend to come along with you, take the car to a mechanic to get a diagnostic.
Know your rights!
First thing before you look at a car is to decide whether the car make and model itself are typically reliable. There are tons of websites to provide feedback and reviews from cars reliability. A good website to take a glance at some good and bad cars is the Consumerreports.org - Best and Worst Used Cars article. They give you a good sized list of reliable vehicles based how reliable they are. If you want more details about other cars, you can look at the CR's Vehicle Profiles.
It is also important to find out if the seller has a guarantee about the condition of the car or if it is being sold "as-is"
Before you leave to look at the vehicle, make a mental list, or even a real list of things you need to check on the car. Here are some things to put on your list.
Check the exterior.
Begin by doing a walk around of the car, looking for dents, chipped paint, mismatched body panels or parts, broken lamp housings, and chipped windows. A door, hood, or trunk that doesn't close and seal properly is evidence of previous damage and/or sloppy repair work. Inconsistent welds around the hood, doors, or trunk also indicate repair.
Check the interior.
Check the inside for obvious problems. Sagging headliner, cracked dashboard, rips or stains in the leather or material on the seats and carpet, missing knobs, handles, and buttons. Frayed or melted seat belts may mean there was an accident or fire. Prematurely worn pedals or a sagging driver's seat are signs that the vehicle has very high mileage. An air bag warning light that stays lit may indicate that a bag has deployed and been improperly replaced--or not replaced at all. A mildew smell, caused by a water leak, can be very hard to get rid of. Discolored carpeting, silt in the trunk, or intermittent electrical problems may be signs of flood damage.
Check under the hood.
At first glance, the engine, radiator, and battery should be relatively grease-free and have very little or no corrosion. Belts and hoses should be pliable and unworn. Look for wet spots, which can indicate leaking oil or fluids. Melted wires, tubes, or lines, or a blackened firewall may be signs of overheating or even an engine fire.
With the engine cool, insure that all fluids are clean, filled to the proper level, and do not have leaks.
Check the engine oil while the engine is cool. Remove the dipstick from its tube and clean it with a dry rag, reinsert it and remove it again. The oil level should be between the "full" and "add" marks. Normal engine oil is brown or black, depending on when it was last changed. Gritty or gelatinous oil may indicate long stretches between oil changes. Thin, frothy oil that's the color of chocolate milk may point to a blown head gasket or to a severely damaged block or cylinder head. Fine metal particles in the oil indicate internal damage or heavy wear.
The transmission fluid dipstick is usually located in the rear of the engine compartment. Check it right after the car has been driven for more than 10 minutes. To check the transmission, have the engine at idle and both the brake and parking brake applied, shift through all the gears. Leave the engine running and put it in neutral or park and check the level in relation to the dipstick marks. Also inspect the fluid's condition. The transmission fluid should be bright red to light reddish brown, not dark brown, black, or mustard colored; those colors can indicate serious problems. If it has a strong burned smell, that can indicate severe wear.
Check the tires
Wear should be even across the width of the tread and the same on the left and right sides of the car. Tires that are frequently used while over-inflated tend to have more wear in the middle; tires driven while under-inflated tend to wear more on the sides. Heavy wear on the outside shoulder near the sidewall of the tire indicates a car that has been driven hard. This can be a sign that other parts of the car may suffer from excessive wear due to aggressive driving. Cupped tires, those that have worn unevenly along the tread's circumference, can indicate various problems with the steering, suspension, or brakes.
Check the steering
With the car idling, turn the steering wheel right and left. Check that there isn't any slack or "play," or clunking noise in the steering. Excess play may indicate a worn steering gear or damaged linkage.
Check the suspension
Check the suspension by pushing down hard on each fender and letting go. The car should rebound softly, once or twice. More than two severe rebounds indicate worn shock absorbers or struts. Also, drive the car over a bumpy road at about 30 mph. A car that bounces and slams at moderate speeds over common pavement may have a worn or damaged suspension.
Check the tailpipe
A puff of white smoke upon start-up is probably the result of condensation and not a cause for alarm. Black smoke after the car has warmed up indicates an overly rich air-fuel mixture--usually due to a dirty air filter, a faulty oxygen sensor, or mass-air meter (which measures the amount of intake air). Blue smoke indicates oil burning--a bad sign, requiring expensive repairs. Billowing white smoke indicates water in the combustion chamber, usually because of a blown head gasket, damaged cylinder head, or even a cracked block--all expensive repairs.
Step on the gas
While driving, does the engine rev excessively before the car accelerates? This is a common sign of a maladjusted or worn-out clutch, or a damaged automatic transmission. A clutch adjustment is a relatively inexpensive service, but a damaged clutch or automatic-transmission repair can be extremely expensive. Listen for knocks and pings while accelerating. These indicate bad ignition timing or an engine beginning to overheat.
Check for recalls and TSBs
Check to see if any recalls were issued and if recall service was performed. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (www.nhtsa.dot.gov; 800-424-9393) lists all official recalls. Ask the seller for documentation on recall service. If any recall work has not been performed on a car that you're considering, it should be done as soon as possible. Automakers are required to perform recall service free of charge, regardless of the vehicle's age or how long ago the recall was issued.
Technical Service Bulletins, or "TSBs," are reports a manufacturer sends its dealers about common or recurring problems with a specific model, and how to rectify them. Because TSBs aren't typically safety related, manufacturers are not obligated to notify owners or pay for the repairs, though an automaker may pay for some or all of the work--if an owner asks them to. Lists of TSBs can be found at www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/index.cfm. Check for any TSBs that were issued for the model you're buying and if the seller had any necessary repairs performed.
Buy a history report
A vehicle-history report from CarFax (www.carfax.com) or Experian Automotive (www.autocheck.com) can alert you to possiblehttp://www.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=6693337349954253455 odometer fraud; reveal past fire, flood, and accident damage; or tell you if a rebuilt or salvage title has ever been issued for the vehicle. To access this information, provide the vehicle identification number, or "VIN," which is on the top of the dashboard, near the driver's side roof pillar. Reports should cost $15 and the process takes about five minutes. (CarFax's Web site provides Consumer Reports' advice and information on buying used cars.)
Visit a mechanic
If you couldn't find a mechanically inclined friend to come along with you, take the car to a mechanic to get a diagnostic.
Know your rights!
| The law can protect you if your carriage turns into a pumpkin. | |
| Part of buying smart is knowing what protection you have before you need it. State laws vary greatly in the degree of consumer protection they afford. New York law, for instance, requires that car dealers offer written warranties on all used vehicles with less than 100,000 miles selling for $1,500 or more. In California, it's illegal for a dealer to sell a car with unsafe tires, damaged glass, nonfunctioning lights, or ineffective brakes. Other states offer varying amounts of protection. Check with your state attorney general's office or local consumer-protection agency to learn about the laws in your area. If you've bought a lemon From a dealer. The state attorney general's office can explain how your state laws protect you. If you suspect that you've bought a rebuilt wreck, contact the National Association of Consumer Advocates (www.naca.net), which maintains a list of attorneys who specialize in such cases. If you have a problem with a car covered by a warranty or service contract, and the dealership refuses service, you have several options. For service agreements administered by an automaker, contact the company's local representative. These representatives are authorized to adjust and approve repairs independently of the dealership that sold the car. If you bought the vehicle from a franchised dealer, you may be eligible for mediation through the National Automotive Dealers Association's Automotive Consumer Action Program (AUTOCAP). For more information, call NADA at 800-252-6232 or visit www.nada.com. If the dealer is willing, consider using a dispute-resolution organization to mediate your disagreement. Some service agreements require this as a first step before suing the dealer or manufacturer. Pay attention to the wording of the sales contract before buying to determine if you may sue, or if you must submit to arbitration. From a private seller. Your options are much more limited. If the seller has made any written guarantees about the condition of the vehicle, you can use them as the basis for filing a lawsuit. You can resolve disputes involving smaller amounts of money (usually less than $2,000) without an attorney through small claims court. The clerk of your local small-claims court can tell you what the exact dollar limit is in your state and provide information on how to file suit. | |
Friday, January 6, 2012
Trading (Beginners)
I'm not sure how many people know the rules of trading cars on Craigslist, so I will explain some.
A straight-across trade
Trading straight across means you and the other owner will swap vehicles. That's it. No money involved, no conditions or rules such as "I will smog mine if you smog yours" or "Pay your tags first then we will trade." No. You meet at a public place at a set time and date. If you both agree that your vehicles are worth about the same (worth mean money or personal value) you will trade straight across. Here is an example by what I mean when I say worth personal value: You have a gas saver car, but it is two door. You or your wife if expecting twins. You need a four door car or SUV. You found an SUV on Craigslist that is looking for a gas saver. While the gas saver car may be worth less money, the owner of the SUV is willing to put that fact aside considering they need a gas saver car to commute. It will save them money in the long run. Do you see my point? If you found a soul willing to trade straight across, consider yourself lucky, and an advanced car trader.
A Partial Trade
A partial trade is when the owner of a car, that's worth more than yours, wants to trade his or her car for your car with cash or some other value along with it. In rare cases, some people will take other forms of valuables such as TVs, gaming systems, computers and other electronics, boats, jet skis, motorcycles, gold, etc.
No Trades
"No Trades" is a sad statement posted on some ads on Craigslist. This means they will accept CASH ONLY. The will only sell, so don't even ask about a trade.
Sometimes people will put on their ads "consider trades" This means go ahead and call them and find out what they are interested in. Tell them what you have, make an offer of your vehicle. The worst they can say is no thanks. They might say they want a partial trade because the value of their vehicle is greater. Or they may actually say "That's exactly what I'm looking for, I'll trade straight across."
If adds don't state whether they are wanting to sell or trade or both, call them anyways and ask. They may have forgotten to mention they may consider a trade. People like to get calls about their car because it shows others are interested. Sometimes people just give up on selling/trading their car if they get no calls.
So even if you don't have your ad on Craigslist, go to cars & trucks for sale by owner and type in "trade" and see what you find. It may just be your next car!
A straight-across trade
Trading straight across means you and the other owner will swap vehicles. That's it. No money involved, no conditions or rules such as "I will smog mine if you smog yours" or "Pay your tags first then we will trade." No. You meet at a public place at a set time and date. If you both agree that your vehicles are worth about the same (worth mean money or personal value) you will trade straight across. Here is an example by what I mean when I say worth personal value: You have a gas saver car, but it is two door. You or your wife if expecting twins. You need a four door car or SUV. You found an SUV on Craigslist that is looking for a gas saver. While the gas saver car may be worth less money, the owner of the SUV is willing to put that fact aside considering they need a gas saver car to commute. It will save them money in the long run. Do you see my point? If you found a soul willing to trade straight across, consider yourself lucky, and an advanced car trader.
A Partial Trade
A partial trade is when the owner of a car, that's worth more than yours, wants to trade his or her car for your car with cash or some other value along with it. In rare cases, some people will take other forms of valuables such as TVs, gaming systems, computers and other electronics, boats, jet skis, motorcycles, gold, etc.
No Trades
"No Trades" is a sad statement posted on some ads on Craigslist. This means they will accept CASH ONLY. The will only sell, so don't even ask about a trade.
Sometimes people will put on their ads "consider trades" This means go ahead and call them and find out what they are interested in. Tell them what you have, make an offer of your vehicle. The worst they can say is no thanks. They might say they want a partial trade because the value of their vehicle is greater. Or they may actually say "That's exactly what I'm looking for, I'll trade straight across."
If adds don't state whether they are wanting to sell or trade or both, call them anyways and ask. They may have forgotten to mention they may consider a trade. People like to get calls about their car because it shows others are interested. Sometimes people just give up on selling/trading their car if they get no calls.
So even if you don't have your ad on Craigslist, go to cars & trucks for sale by owner and type in "trade" and see what you find. It may just be your next car!
Advanced Values and Prices
Now that you know The Difference Between The Value and The Asking Price of your car, you can go further into detail to get the most accurate estimate of how much you can sell your car for.
A lot of people keep in mind a bunch of different details to look for when checking out your car. If they see your tires need replacing soon, your A/C does not work, and one electric window does not work, they are going to wonder if your price is reasonable or worth it for the repairs they may want or need to do in the future. Let's say the car you have is worth $2,500. Consider the cost of the tires is about $200, the A/C approx $100, and a window repair approx $100. Added up the total is $400. Now the obvious buyer would want you to subtract that total from the asking price upon viewing the vehicle. If you were to subtract 50% of the total added repairs ($200) BEFORE you post your add, people will be more likely to purchase at your asking price ($2,300)
Consider this equation to help you determine a fair desired asking price.
+ Value of the car
- Deductions (50% of cost for repairs or replacements)
= Desired asking price.
For example.
2,500 - value
- 200 - deductions
= 2,300 - desired price
Recall what I said about adding on $200-$500 to your desired asking price, so that you can get that price because people will always try to talk you down! But don't add too much, or people will not bother!
A lot of people keep in mind a bunch of different details to look for when checking out your car. If they see your tires need replacing soon, your A/C does not work, and one electric window does not work, they are going to wonder if your price is reasonable or worth it for the repairs they may want or need to do in the future. Let's say the car you have is worth $2,500. Consider the cost of the tires is about $200, the A/C approx $100, and a window repair approx $100. Added up the total is $400. Now the obvious buyer would want you to subtract that total from the asking price upon viewing the vehicle. If you were to subtract 50% of the total added repairs ($200) BEFORE you post your add, people will be more likely to purchase at your asking price ($2,300)
Consider this equation to help you determine a fair desired asking price.
+ Value of the car
- Deductions (50% of cost for repairs or replacements)
= Desired asking price.
For example.
2,500 - value
- 200 - deductions
= 2,300 - desired price
Recall what I said about adding on $200-$500 to your desired asking price, so that you can get that price because people will always try to talk you down! But don't add too much, or people will not bother!
Thursday, January 5, 2012
Avoiding Scams!
The best way to avoid scams is to only add your phone number to your ad and not your e-mail. E-mail is the biggest scammers tool. Until you are more advanced to decipher scam e-mails from real ones, just stick to your cell or home phone. If you do get an e-mail concerning your craigslist account with a link, don't click it! Delete it ASAP!
Be sure you watch out for people trying to hack your Craigslist account. Never open an e-mail that says your account has been blocked or you have a new message. These are common hacking e-mails. Usually the only e-mail you get from Craigslist are those that are confirming your ad or letting you know your ad have been flagged for removal.
One of the biggest scams on Craigslist is when your receive a 'cashiers check' in the mail that is Moneygram of some sort with an amount of money way more than your asking price. Usually accompanying a request to cash it and send the rest of the cash back. SCAM! If you try to cash this you will be accused of committing fraud. Not the person who sent it to you.
Tip: If it sounds too good to be true, it normally is.
Never wire any money to anyone; always deal in person. If the person is avoiding meeting in person with you or keeps putting it off; just ignore it. It's more and likely a scam or they really just don't want your car or to trade. Obviously, if they live overseas, they are not meeting you in person. So don't even think about going there!
Never give out your bank information! Always deal with CASH! When dealing with big money ($1,000 or more) buy some magic markers to make sure the bills are real. Or you can go to your local bank and have them tested before you sell.
You can help protect yourself when you read more about scams on the Craigslist Avoid Scams Page.
Be sure you watch out for people trying to hack your Craigslist account. Never open an e-mail that says your account has been blocked or you have a new message. These are common hacking e-mails. Usually the only e-mail you get from Craigslist are those that are confirming your ad or letting you know your ad have been flagged for removal.
One of the biggest scams on Craigslist is when your receive a 'cashiers check' in the mail that is Moneygram of some sort with an amount of money way more than your asking price. Usually accompanying a request to cash it and send the rest of the cash back. SCAM! If you try to cash this you will be accused of committing fraud. Not the person who sent it to you.
Tip: If it sounds too good to be true, it normally is.
Never wire any money to anyone; always deal in person. If the person is avoiding meeting in person with you or keeps putting it off; just ignore it. It's more and likely a scam or they really just don't want your car or to trade. Obviously, if they live overseas, they are not meeting you in person. So don't even think about going there!
Never give out your bank information! Always deal with CASH! When dealing with big money ($1,000 or more) buy some magic markers to make sure the bills are real. Or you can go to your local bank and have them tested before you sell.
You can help protect yourself when you read more about scams on the Craigslist Avoid Scams Page.
Do’s, Don’ts, Never’s and Not Recommended’s of Trading and Buying Cars
This is a post about trading and buying a car and the cautions you should take. I am always adding to this page, so check back every so often.
Do’s
- Always ask to see the sellers drivers license. Some people claim the car is theirs, but it could be stolen. Make sure the registration card is current and in the sellers name.
- Before you trade or buy a car, check how much the price is going to be at the DMV. There is a page on the CA DMV’s website to calculate how much it’s going to cost to put it in your name and how much the tags will be if needed soon. Click here for CA DMV used vehicle purchase fee calculator.
- Before you trade or buy a car, check the smog history. You will need the license plate or vin number. Click here to visit the Bureau of Automotive Repair’s Smog Test History.
- Always test drive the car before you trade or buy it. Make sure you get through all the gears and that everything works (power steering, ac/heater, horn, blinkers, lights, make sure it warms up and does not overheat, etc)
- Always ask for all previous paperwork on the car (smog, tune ups, oil changes etc)
- Always look under the hood. If you see a lot of greasy gunk, it probably has been leaking oil for some time. Check for cracked hoses and leaks under the car as it is running. If the engine does not sound steady, or sounds hesitant there is probably a mechanical problem.
- Always take time to make a decision. If you are unsure of making the trade or purchase, take a day or two to think it over.
- Always bring a mechanically inclined friend or family member to the trade that can determine if the car needs repairs or whether it is worth trading or buying.
- Always finish all the paperwork at the trade or purchase. Get copies of phone numbers, addresses, bills of sales and make sure you do the release of liability at a local DMV office if you traded.
DON’T believe everything that you hear. People lie.
Never’s
Never trade or buy a car at night or after dark. A car may look nice in the night but in the morning you go outside and think “WTH DID I DO???”
Never trade or buy a car that has a temp tag. That’s a big no-no. It may mean the car did not pass smog, even if they say it’s for something else. If you really want the car, have the seller take care of the temp tag first.
Never trade or buy a car without paperwork, especially the pink slip!
Never buy a car from an independent car salesman.
It is not recommended:
- To trade or buy a car that has a salvage title. Salvage title means it has been in a wreck or stolen and the car was considered salvaged by the insurance company and the owners fixed the problems and body damage, supposedly. Sometimes the owner only has enough money to replace the cosmetic damage and not the internal damage.
- To trade or buy a car on a deal that sounds too-good-to-be-true. Most of the time, it is too good to be true. There are a lot of problems with cars mechanically, that can be easily hidden.
- To trade or buy a car that has high miles. You should steer clear of cars over 180,000 miles. Even if someone says it’s only freeway miles, they cannot prove it. Unless someone has the paperwork to prove the engine has fewer miles than it actually says, don’t do it.
- To trade or buy a car with out-of-state license plates. The laws outside California are different for vehicles. Some cars don’t need to be smogged, so the car may have NEVER been tested before. Also, out-of-state cars take a lot of extra cash to get transferred to California plates. Best to pass it up.
- To fill out release of liability online at the DMV website. It is always best to go to the DMV in person and get a stamped copy of your release of liability. You can print a copy of the release of liability here: Notice of Transfer and Release of Liability
Do’s
- Always ask to see the sellers drivers license. Some people claim the car is theirs, but it could be stolen. Make sure the registration card is current and in the sellers name.
- Before you trade or buy a car, check how much the price is going to be at the DMV. There is a page on the CA DMV’s website to calculate how much it’s going to cost to put it in your name and how much the tags will be if needed soon. Click here for CA DMV used vehicle purchase fee calculator.
- Before you trade or buy a car, check the smog history. You will need the license plate or vin number. Click here to visit the Bureau of Automotive Repair’s Smog Test History.
- Always test drive the car before you trade or buy it. Make sure you get through all the gears and that everything works (power steering, ac/heater, horn, blinkers, lights, make sure it warms up and does not overheat, etc)
- Always ask for all previous paperwork on the car (smog, tune ups, oil changes etc)
- Always look under the hood. If you see a lot of greasy gunk, it probably has been leaking oil for some time. Check for cracked hoses and leaks under the car as it is running. If the engine does not sound steady, or sounds hesitant there is probably a mechanical problem.
- Always take time to make a decision. If you are unsure of making the trade or purchase, take a day or two to think it over.
- Always bring a mechanically inclined friend or family member to the trade that can determine if the car needs repairs or whether it is worth trading or buying.
- Always finish all the paperwork at the trade or purchase. Get copies of phone numbers, addresses, bills of sales and make sure you do the release of liability at a local DMV office if you traded.
DON’T believe everything that you hear. People lie.
Never’s
Never trade or buy a car at night or after dark. A car may look nice in the night but in the morning you go outside and think “WTH DID I DO???”
Never trade or buy a car that has a temp tag. That’s a big no-no. It may mean the car did not pass smog, even if they say it’s for something else. If you really want the car, have the seller take care of the temp tag first.
Never trade or buy a car without paperwork, especially the pink slip!
Never buy a car from an independent car salesman.
It is not recommended:
- To trade or buy a car that has a salvage title. Salvage title means it has been in a wreck or stolen and the car was considered salvaged by the insurance company and the owners fixed the problems and body damage, supposedly. Sometimes the owner only has enough money to replace the cosmetic damage and not the internal damage.
- To trade or buy a car on a deal that sounds too-good-to-be-true. Most of the time, it is too good to be true. There are a lot of problems with cars mechanically, that can be easily hidden.
- To trade or buy a car that has high miles. You should steer clear of cars over 180,000 miles. Even if someone says it’s only freeway miles, they cannot prove it. Unless someone has the paperwork to prove the engine has fewer miles than it actually says, don’t do it.
- To trade or buy a car with out-of-state license plates. The laws outside California are different for vehicles. Some cars don’t need to be smogged, so the car may have NEVER been tested before. Also, out-of-state cars take a lot of extra cash to get transferred to California plates. Best to pass it up.
- To fill out release of liability online at the DMV website. It is always best to go to the DMV in person and get a stamped copy of your release of liability. You can print a copy of the release of liability here: Notice of Transfer and Release of Liability
Advanced Craigslist Ad Tips
It’s really not that hard to make a great ad. Making sure you have all your information and that the ad stands out from other ads is always a big step. The simple knowledge of HTML can benefit you greatly. With HTML on Craigslist, you can alter your text to change the size, font and even color of your text. Here is a list of simple HTML codes to change your text.
<FONT COLOR=”insert color“> Text that you want colored </font>
^^ this is to change the color ^^^ this is to end the colored text
Colors you can use are red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, black, white. There are more colors that you can look up to use.
You can also change the size. Here is a website to help you with further codes. HTML tutorial font.
A great tip for making your ad pop is beautiful pictures. Wash your car and clean it out before you take pictures. Clean the windows and wipe down the dash and other surfaces. Take high quality pictures. Make an account at Photobucket.com and add you pictures to it. Photobucket is a website for posting pictures and videos. Copy the link under the picture that says “HTML code” and post to the bottom of your add under all your text. After the code hit Enter once or twice and post the next picture. You can add as many pictures as you like. This way people can get a good look at your vehicle.
If you have any troubles, give me a shout. desolate_dreamer@yahoo.com
<FONT COLOR=”insert color“> Text that you want colored </font>
^^ this is to change the color ^^^ this is to end the colored text
Colors you can use are red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, black, white. There are more colors that you can look up to use.
You can also change the size. Here is a website to help you with further codes. HTML tutorial font.
A great tip for making your ad pop is beautiful pictures. Wash your car and clean it out before you take pictures. Clean the windows and wipe down the dash and other surfaces. Take high quality pictures. Make an account at Photobucket.com and add you pictures to it. Photobucket is a website for posting pictures and videos. Copy the link under the picture that says “HTML code” and post to the bottom of your add under all your text. After the code hit Enter once or twice and post the next picture. You can add as many pictures as you like. This way people can get a good look at your vehicle.
If you have any troubles, give me a shout. desolate_dreamer@yahoo.com
Difference between value and asking price of your car, and how to find it.
Finding the value of your car is the easy part. Determining your asking price for your car is another story. The best, easiest and fastest way to determine the value of your car is to find it on Kelly Blue Book. These prices are closest in accuracy when you are honest with the information you give about your vehicle.
If your car is older than 1991 you may need to use Nada Guide to determine the value. Warning: these values are RETAIL prices and are way above than what your asking price should be.
Now that you have the values of your car, you need to determine what condition your car is. Kelly Blue Book has a condition calculator that you can use.
Let’s say your car is in “Good” condition, at 2,700. If you think that price is reasonable, use it for your asking price. If you want to sell your car fast, you can take off a hundred or so. If you are not getting any calls about your car, maybe you priced it too high.
A tip to get the price you are really asking for, is to price higher and let people bring you down.
Example: You want to get 2,700 out of your car. On your ad, put your asking price as 3,000 and include “Or best offer or OBO” That way people think they are bringing your price down but in reality you are getting the price you wanted. Whatever your price is, add between $200 and $500 because people will always try to talk your price down! (2,700 to 3,000)
I hope you get what you want out of your car!
If your car is older than 1991 you may need to use Nada Guide to determine the value. Warning: these values are RETAIL prices and are way above than what your asking price should be.
Now that you have the values of your car, you need to determine what condition your car is. Kelly Blue Book has a condition calculator that you can use.
Let’s say your car is in “Good” condition, at 2,700. If you think that price is reasonable, use it for your asking price. If you want to sell your car fast, you can take off a hundred or so. If you are not getting any calls about your car, maybe you priced it too high.
A tip to get the price you are really asking for, is to price higher and let people bring you down.
Example: You want to get 2,700 out of your car. On your ad, put your asking price as 3,000 and include “Or best offer or OBO” That way people think they are bringing your price down but in reality you are getting the price you wanted. Whatever your price is, add between $200 and $500 because people will always try to talk your price down! (2,700 to 3,000)
I hope you get what you want out of your car!
The Basic Craigslist Car Ad
I have found a lot of ads on Craigslist that contain little or no information about the car for sale. Some even forget to put the year of the car in the ad! You know what I do when I see ads like that? I don’t even bother reading them, I click back and go to the next. This post is to help you post a basic ad, so people know everything they need to about the car you are trying to sell. You will save minutes answering questions on the phone. There are also ads that people have scrambled all the information into one long paragraph. This makes the reader seems as if its too much work to read it all. If you do things in tinier paragraphs or at least skip a line from time to time it will be much easier on the readers eyes.
Let’s start off with a good title. I will use my car as an example: 1995 Chevrolet Blazer
As you are creating your ad, make sure you post your car in cars & trucks – by owner.
Your ad should be basic and neat, with the year, make, model, price, city, and state in the title. (see below)
In the next bigger box will need to be filled in with all the information of the car including once again the year, make, model, and price. Here is a list of things you will need to know about your vehicle in order to post a detailed and informed ad:
Year, make, model, base, engine size, and transmission.
Example: 1995 Chevy Blazer LS, 4.3 vortec V6, automatic transmission
Clean or salvage title, miles on the dash, and tags/smog info.
Example: Clean title, 192,000 miles, tags paid til 2012, passed smog (enter date)
Power or manual windows and locks? A/C and heater work? Mention interior rips or stains or say if it is clean, same for the paint. Tilt wheel? Power steering? Power or heated seats? Alarm? Sound system? Towing packages or roof racks? Stock rims or aftermarket? Tires good or need replaced?(list all extras in the add, as well as recent tune ups, oil changes and new or replaced parts)
List any problems with the car. Does it have any lights such as a check engine or abs light on?
Example: “ABS light is on”
“AC does not work; need to be recharged.”
“Interior light does not work; needs bulb”
“Does not pass smog; needs (part)”
At some point in the add, explain why your are selling or trading, and if you are wanting to trade, say so.
Example: “Selling/Trading because I need a car that’s better on gas”
“No trades” if you do not want to trade.
“Partial trades only” (means you will not trade straight across, you want cash on top; which usually does not happen)
(Optional: list a few cars or kind of vehicles you are looking to trade for)
Example: “Would like to trade for a Saturn, Honda or gas saving car”
Most importantly, put your contact information. If you don’t want people to e-mail you (optional, but recommended) because of large amount of scam lately, make sure you check “hide” under your e-mail address under the title box.
Example:
Contact Jilian. (555) 555-5555 Call or text (for cell phones)
Contact Jilian (555) 555-5555 Calls only (home phones)
If you do not have picture messaging, say so. Many people just assume you do.
Your ad should now look something like this:
You can now add some pictures you took of your vehicle. If you haven’t already taken some, go do it now. You can only add four, but take many and decide which look best and choose four. Best pictures are one from the side, one from the front, and one or two of the inside. Try not to get your license plate in the picture or edit it out with paint.
If you are more advanced with computers, you can add larger pictures to show greater details. See my blog Advanced Craigslist Car Ad tips.
Next, click continue and review your ad. If you like what you see, continue. Another tip is that if you type up all your info and refresh the Craigslist ad page, all that you typed will be lost. It’s best if you type it all out on a .txt doc first so you will not lose all of your information.
I hope all of your ads are successful! E-mail me with any questions you have at desolate_dreamer@yahoo.com.
Let’s start off with a good title. I will use my car as an example: 1995 Chevrolet Blazer
As you are creating your ad, make sure you post your car in cars & trucks – by owner.
Your ad should be basic and neat, with the year, make, model, price, city, and state in the title. (see below)
In the next bigger box will need to be filled in with all the information of the car including once again the year, make, model, and price. Here is a list of things you will need to know about your vehicle in order to post a detailed and informed ad:
Year, make, model, base, engine size, and transmission.
Example: 1995 Chevy Blazer LS, 4.3 vortec V6, automatic transmission
Clean or salvage title, miles on the dash, and tags/smog info.
Example: Clean title, 192,000 miles, tags paid til 2012, passed smog (enter date)
Power or manual windows and locks? A/C and heater work? Mention interior rips or stains or say if it is clean, same for the paint. Tilt wheel? Power steering? Power or heated seats? Alarm? Sound system? Towing packages or roof racks? Stock rims or aftermarket? Tires good or need replaced?(list all extras in the add, as well as recent tune ups, oil changes and new or replaced parts)
List any problems with the car. Does it have any lights such as a check engine or abs light on?
Example: “ABS light is on”
“AC does not work; need to be recharged.”
“Interior light does not work; needs bulb”
“Does not pass smog; needs (part)”
At some point in the add, explain why your are selling or trading, and if you are wanting to trade, say so.
Example: “Selling/Trading because I need a car that’s better on gas”
“No trades” if you do not want to trade.
“Partial trades only” (means you will not trade straight across, you want cash on top; which usually does not happen)
(Optional: list a few cars or kind of vehicles you are looking to trade for)
Example: “Would like to trade for a Saturn, Honda or gas saving car”
Most importantly, put your contact information. If you don’t want people to e-mail you (optional, but recommended) because of large amount of scam lately, make sure you check “hide” under your e-mail address under the title box.
Example:
Contact Jilian. (555) 555-5555 Call or text (for cell phones)
Contact Jilian (555) 555-5555 Calls only (home phones)
If you do not have picture messaging, say so. Many people just assume you do.
Your ad should now look something like this:
If you are more advanced with computers, you can add larger pictures to show greater details. See my blog Advanced Craigslist Car Ad tips.
Next, click continue and review your ad. If you like what you see, continue. Another tip is that if you type up all your info and refresh the Craigslist ad page, all that you typed will be lost. It’s best if you type it all out on a .txt doc first so you will not lose all of your information.
I hope all of your ads are successful! E-mail me with any questions you have at desolate_dreamer@yahoo.com.
Are you really ready?
Everyone remembers their first car. If you had to sell it, junk it, or even pass it down the family, you remember how sentimental you were to that car. You may not think you would miss the car you have, but wait til it’s gone. You’ve probably created memories in it. Most of the time, any car you trade or sell away you will miss, even if you hated it at the time. When looking to trade or sell your car, really think about the pros and cons. Pros and cons lists really help in these situations if you’re in a rut. The car you have now may have the best gas mileage in the world, but putting a baby in the back seat of a two door car may not be ideal for you if looking to expand your family. You may love your lifted suburban, but using it to commute to your new job 50 miles a day, when gas prices are high and your mileage is 1 mile per gallon, may not be ideal, either. Understand where I am going? Everyone’s situation for wanting to trade or sell their car is unique in its own way. So really ask yourself, do you NEED to trade or sell your car, or want to just to satisfy your curiously. If you are really attached to your car after thinking about it, I would recommend, if you can, waiting.
In some cases, your car has some mechanical issues that leave you with no choice but to sell it. Good reason. There are a lot of mechanics or people with a hobby fixing up beaten and battered cars that are looking for cars like yours that they can fix. One down side to having a car with a major mechanical problem is finding the value or price on it. Kelly Blue Book does not have values for cars in poor conditions. I will discuss more on values of vehicles, later.
In some cases, your car has some mechanical issues that leave you with no choice but to sell it. Good reason. There are a lot of mechanics or people with a hobby fixing up beaten and battered cars that are looking for cars like yours that they can fix. One down side to having a car with a major mechanical problem is finding the value or price on it. Kelly Blue Book does not have values for cars in poor conditions. I will discuss more on values of vehicles, later.
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